In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face is that, in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto: Anyone can cook. But I realize that only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more. Linguini: So this is it. It's not much but it's, y'know... not much. 许多时候，评论家的工作很简单。我们的风险很小，我们也很享受可以随意品评厨师和他们厨艺的这种高高在上的姿态。我们肆意地做出批评，随心所欲，哗众取宠。但我们不得不面对的现实是，在许多情况下，即使是再普通不过的垃圾食品，它本身都要比我们对它的批评有意义得多。但有时评论家也会冒险，那就是在他们发现并且维护新生事物的时候，世界对新的天才和新的创造总是不友好的，新事物需要人们的包容。
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